Leg o’mutton sleeve worn by Queen Elizabeth I, painted by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger ca. 1592. (Image credit: National Portrait Gallery)
The leg o’mutton or leg-of-mutton sleeve, also known as the French gigot sleeve, with its distinctive puffed shoulder and tapered wrist, has a fascinating history, making multiple appearances in fashion throughout the centuries.
Early Origins
The concept of voluminous sleeves dates to the 16th century. The Tudor period of England, 1485 to 1603, introduced huge “puff and pane” sleeves intended to signify the magnificence of the monarchy. During this period, both men and women wore similar styles of clothing, often featuring these puffed or slashed sleeves. Sumptuary laws of this time period regulated how the English populace was supposed to dress depending on social status.
Queen Elizabeth I & King Henry VIII both wearing ‘puff & pane’ sleeves (Image credit: www.stitchfashion.com)
Early 19th Century Revival
The leg-of-mutton sleeve experienced a significant resurgence in popularity during the early 19th century, particularly between 1825 and 1833. This style was influenced by the Romantic era’s emphasis on idealized beauty and emotion. The voluminous sleeves, often combined with a tightly cinched waist and flowing skirt, created a dramatic silhouette that complemented the fashion of the time.
1832-5 American Cotton Dress Brooklyn Costume Museum at Metropolitan Museum of Art
Late 19th Century Comeback
The leg-of-mutton sleeve made another notable appearance in the 1890s. This style was often seen in both daywear and evening gowns, reflecting the evolving tastes of the era. But by 1893, sleeve began to deflate and by 1897, the style was on the wane.
Leg o’mutton sleeve dresses with cinched waists & full skirts circa 1894 (Image credit: genealogylady.net)
Modern Interpretations
Today, the leg o’mutton’s influence can still be observed in contemporary fashion as designers often incorporate elements of the style to create artistic variations. These sleeves are particularly popular in designer collections for their dramatic appeal. We have seen them used not only in the bridal industry but also in tailored jackets.
The leg-of-mutton sleeve is a testament to the cyclical nature of fashion, with its enduring appeal and ability to adapt to changing trends. Its historical significance lies not only in its aesthetic impact but also in its reflection of the social and cultural values of the time.
Contemporary leg o’mutton sleeves (Image credit: Second Skin Co., Alexander McQueen & White Bridal Boutiques
Learn How to Draft a Leg o’Mutton Sleeve
